![]() ![]() I haven't located the diode on my 2004 yet. That is another fact which supports that the Circulation Pump must be energized 100% of the time for the Booster Heater to operate.Īs an aside, Splice #S362 is listed as "Near Circulation Pump Diode" Fig. That is regardless of whether the engine is running or not. If power to Espar Pin #6 is interrupted the Booster Heater will power off. Splice #362 also supplies the Circulation Pump. For the Espar Booster Heater that 12v is supplied to Espar Pin #6 via Splice #362. The correct control wiring/logic is likely what I show in blue.įor the Espar Booster Heater aka Except Program Timer to operate 12v power must be supplied to Espar Pin #6 (enable). There must be a blocking diode for the Booster Heater as shown in schematic 8W-42-09. The wire DG/RD being powered does not backfeed 12v to Espar Pin #6. The Circulation Pump is powered by the ATC C1-2 pin DG/RD wire to run during the REST operation. (Espar wouldn't fire with only Pin #7 energized/enabled) The Circulation Pump is not automatically powered up with the Espar Pin #7 enabled. There is not a circulation pump complex logic control with my Booster Heater option. The Coolant Circulation Pump runs subject to the key position as shown in the 8W-42- 09 schematic. I set the ATC REST control to enable (DG/RD powered from ATC Pin C1-2 - Circ Pump Running) with the DIY SPDT dash switch still on. I powered the Pin #7 with the DIY SPDT dash switch. So far the circulation pump runs 100% the time.Ĭlick to expand.Unable to test above 230F, but the pump runs 100% of the time.įrom my testing so far it appears that the pump running all the time as shown by the Service Manual schematics is the most accurate.Īs an additional check I removed my DIY Diode Run fuse to test if the Espar Booster would run while the engine was off. I've tried many different operating conditions. In the case of my 2004 with OEM Booster Heater, the circulation pump runs as long as the key is turned on or the engine is started/running. My conclusion is that my pump has 12v power subject to the key. ![]() ![]() It was fairly easy because my DIY Booster run with diode modification gave me an easy tap point in the fuse holder. Maybe those fancier controls are on other MB models?īased upon the thoughts mentioned above, I installed an indicator light to monitor the 12v power to my Electric Circulation Pump. The schematics show the Coolant Pump to be basically fed by 12 volt sources which are subject only to the key position There aren't any fancy logic controls shown in the schematics. So far the schematics are the most accurate, but maybe not 100%. Electric Coolant Pump it appeared to me that either the description in the Service Manual or the schematics are wrong. Recently I have unraveled more information regarding the Coolant Circulation Electric Pump.Īfter looking at the documentation related to the MB Sprinter Aux. Some Information Related to the Circulation Pump Once the schematic is done, I would like to add a part numbers for each hose, as they are difficult to find using the Parts Catalog. Description of the operation of the "Cycle Valve" (is this the correct name?).These connections are just what I can see externally. Are the yellow locations the correct place to add 3 way valves, in order to use the auxiliary heater to heat only the heater core and not the engine? In addition to making this new circuit, the auxiliary pump and heater blower would be run with aux.description of how the thermostat works to control temperature and/or sketch of "engine internal" flow passages.I have taken a few guesses, can anyone add to this? heater core area check, since I can't see what's going on up there without removing the disintegrating black insulation.I would appreciate help in the following areas: I could not find a coolant flow diagram anywhere, so I have started to make one for reference.
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